Woodbine After Dark: A Review

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Woodbine After Dark: A Review

Wed, 06/28/2023 - 08:54
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There’s a song called Dancing with a Ghost by the pop-punk band Valencia that I find stuck in my head, inexplicably, every time I find myself in the Woodbine Inn & Restaurant. It’s a beautiful song, with lyrics that intertwine with the music thematically in a way that adds specific depths to the song you may not appreciate on the first listen. You may also miss the tambourines accentuating the upbeat guitar that slits a rhythm in the fabric being stitched together seamlessly by the drums. The tambourines are my favorite part; they become more pronounced as you listen. Little bells, synthesizers, xylophones, tambourines, etc., that are added to a song in post-production are what we colloquially refer to as ear candy in the music industry.

The Woodbine is built entirely of eye candy. The ancient front door that I struggle to open every time I enter the establishment, to the lighting—providing an otherworldly feel to Madisonville I’ve yet to experience anywhere else in this town. When I step into the Woodbine, I am transported elsewhere. Elsewhere is quaint, shiny, old, and perhaps not so surprisingly: ambrosial .

I have been to the Woodbine precisely three times. The first was for a Lion’s Club meeting, the second was the pub's grand opening, and the third was to review the pub. Each time I showed up in black skinny jeans and a black shirt, I felt out of place. This isn’t the fault of the Woodbine; it is my own for putting too much thought into what I’m wearing and not caring enough to do anything about it. There’s something that feels prestigious about the place, like I should wear a suit and tie to have drinks at the pub. This feeling always dissipates within a few minutes of my arrival, however, as the staff is always incredibly welcoming and pleasant no matter how much I appear as if I’m attending a punk rock show rather than a fancy historic inn and restaurant to critique it, ultimately. I should mention that the vibe of the Woodbine is very relaxed and casual, and it is a come as you are scenario, with no need to dress up.

On Friday, June 2nd, the Woodbine Inn & Restaurant held the grand opening of their pub. This is not a review of the grand opening of their pub. This is a review of what it’s like going to their pub a few weeks after they’ve had time to work out the menu.

The pub is located off to the right side of the Woodbine, just past the difficult front door and through the lobby with the beautiful furniture that always seems as if it’s been there since the place opened in 1904, yet from upkeep looks brand new and appropriate.

You’d never guess you’d walked into the pub area, as it looks and feels like another room in the Woodbine that had been there all along. Were it not for the incredibly well-stocked bar, tended by Donna Brigance, you may think you would be in an overflow section of a fine dining establishment.

I mention Donna by her name because she’s a lovely woman, and you may know her from her work elsewhere, but if you don’t, you should go to the Woodbine and request that she make you a Michelada. More on this later.

The pub menu is something I would describe as appetizer heavy, with everything from fried calamari to chicken wings available during their pub hours, which as of this publication, are Wednesdays through Saturdays from 5:30 – 10:00 PM. There will be three instances in this review of me using the term “best I ever had,” and I want to clarify in advance that this is not hyperbole or some dramatic flair. I want people to take away from this review that they should go to the Woodbine and eat at the pub because it is excellent.

The first thing I ordered was the fried ravioli. The description on the menu reads Hot and Spicy Fried Ravioli $10: Stuffed with ricotta cheese and chopped jalapenos and served with marinara sauce on the side. I once learned from watching the Food Network exclusively for a decade that when talking about food meant to be watched or read by others, a writer should avoid using the word “delicious.” This is difficult when describing the fried ravioli, so I will inform you that the fried ravioli at Woodbine’s Pub is the best I have ever had. I experienced a perfect bite, provided by the satisfying crunch from the frying and ricotta oozing out from the impact. Somewhere deep in the back of the ecstasy was a reminder that there are jalapenos in these ravs, and the spicy notes hit just when I thought I’d be moving on to eat another one. As a spice junkie, the spicy fried ravioli hit all the right notes for me, and I’d recommend them to anyone who enjoys a little spicy surprise hidden away in their fried delicacies.

Something about a pub review wouldn’t sit right with me if I didn’t mention drinks.

I am not much of a drinker, and before having alcohol at the Woodbine, it had probably been three or four years since my last wagon escape. The bartender, Donna, mentioned something offhand about a Michelada recipe she was fond of, so I ordered one. I’m kicking myself furiously for not writing down all the ingredients. Still, it is worth mentioning that the Woodbine is next door to The Meteor and that I will return for a Michelada. I remember from her description that a bottle of Dos Equis goes into it, as well as some Tabasco and the rim is lined with Tajin. Dos Equis is my favorite beer; this was a no-brainer. Upon taking my first sip of the michelada, my palette was delighted by various flavors that completely changed how I think about having drinks after work. I think about this Michelada most frequently of all the things I tried that night at the Woodbine. It is the best alcoholic beverage I have ever had.

Somewhere between my second Michelada and internal debates about drinking a third, I ordered Southwest Egg Rolls.

I was not initially going to order these, as I typically order them at every restaurant that offers them, and I try and chase variety in food reviews. The description of them changed my mind. It reads Egg roll wrappers filled with golden corn, red bell peppers, black beans, shredded cheese, and tender bites of chicken with a sweet and spicy seasoning, fried golden brown. The Woodbine Inn & Restaurant was the last place I expected to have the best southwest egg roll I have ever had, but I am happy to report this. They have been deep-fried twice to my palette, and they were all the better for it. The crispy first bite and immediate southwest vibes hit you like a freight train coming straight from New Mexico. You first get the corn and the bell pepper, and somewhere in there, the professionally seasoned chicken reminds you that you are not getting egg rolls like these elsewhere.

The dipping sauce, to quote our editor Richard Sirman, “changed the way I think about soy sauce, man.” It is a soy sauce and red pepper flake (with something else in there) concoction that worked perfectly with everything else in these egg rolls. We both shamelessly double-dipped our way through at least four of them.

My experiences at the Woodbine, whether shared with friends, attending on business, or simply wanting to write a fun food review, have all been incredibly positive. It is my favorite spot to visit in Madisonville, from the ineffable atmosphere to the soft jazz playing over the speakers, to the delightful owners, Michael and Denise Emanuelli, down to the cute little electric candles that decorate the tables in the pub. I encourage anyone craving high-quality fried food, good company, and top tier micheladas to visit the Woodbine during pub hours and experience it themselves. It is well worth every moment of your time.